FREE Pattern – Easter Placemat #2

Well it’s March, spring is coming (or so we are told, but I know that’s hard to believe in some parts of the country), and Easter is just around the corner. You all seemed to enjoy my Easter placemats with the fabric yo-yos so much, that I thought you might like a different idea to use this Easter.

Easter often means family, and plenty of young children. And what do young children mean? Messes!
Here are some placemats that the kids will love to use, and that will help you contain the mess. The silverware pocket will be a fun added element for the small ones, who can help to set their own place at the table. You may even continue to use these throughout the spring!

Easter Placemats

Materials (will yield set of four placemats):

  • 2/3 yds – center fabric (bunny print)
  • 1 fat quarter – accent fabric one (green polka dot)
  • 1 fat quarter – accent fabric two (yellow stripe)
  • 1/8 yd – muslin (to make bunny faces)
  • 1/8 yd – green fabric (carrot stems)
  • ¼ yd – orange fabric (carrots)
  • 1 yd – fusible web
  • 1 yd – fabric backing
  • 1 yd – batting
  • Optional: Scrap pink fabric (inside ears), Scrap black fabric (eyes and nose)

As usual with any project where you are uncertain of the fabric contents, wash and dry all of your fabrics before you get started – this will help prevent shrinkage later on.

Construction:

For each of the four placemats you will need, 11”x 13” piece of center fabric (bunny print), 4½” x 13” piece of each of the two accent fabrics (green polka dot and yellow stripe).
These three pieces are sewn together using a ¼” seam allowance, the accent fabrics are on either side of the center fabric.  Note: If you want, you could use a single accent fabric – and sew it on either side of the center fabric.

You will also need to cut two bunny faces, one carrot top, and two carrots for each placemat. Please see the attached pattern for the bunny faces and carrots.  Pattern Link & Placemat Line Drawing

Draw the carrot top and bunny faces onto the paper backing of your fusible webbing, then attach to the appropriate fabric (muslin for bunnies and green for carrot top), before cutting the fabric to size.

For carrots, draw the shape directly onto your orange fabric, and stack two pieces of fabric with right sides together. You will sew the two carrot pieces together all the way around the shape, then cut a slit in the center of one carrot, trim the excess fabric away (leaving 1/8” all the way around), and turn the piece right side out. This will finish the edges of the carrot and make it very slightly 3-D in appearance.

Fuse bunny faces and carrot tops to the placemats, using the instructions for your fusible webbing. Then stitch around each element with black embroidery thread in a decorative blanket stitch. Stitch the carrots onto the placemat backing in the same manner – except for the TOP of the carrot. Leave the top of the carrot open to make this into a pocket for silverware. Note: to complete the look of this, I blanket-stitched that area too, but did not sew through to the back of the placemat – just through the carrot.
You might be tempted to skip the blanket stitch and just sew down the appliqué pieces with your sewing machine – but looking at this picture, you can see how much the blanket stitch really finishes this project off.


Complete the accents for the bunnies with fabric (pink for inside ears and a small bit of black fabric for eyes and nose) or you can embroider these elements on. I used a small bit of fabric paint to add blush to the bunnies’ cheeks. You could use buttons for the eyes and nose if you wanted (and don’t mind a slightly lumpy placemat). Another fun idea would be to add a bow-tie to one bunny, and a bow on the ear of the other (Mr. & Mrs. Bunny). After finishing this project, it occurred to me that a green napkin would make a great carrot top! What other personal touches come to your mind?

spacespace

After you have finished all your appliqué and embellishments, it’s time to finish off the project – with batting, backing and binding. I used the same fabric as the center of my placemat as the binding, but if you wanted to use a coordinating purchased binding that would be fine as well.

How Fun!

How Fun!

Have fun with this, and if you make one, send me a picture – I love showing different ideas for the same project!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

Free Tips on Fabric Napkins

Now that my Easter table-runner and placemats are done, I needed to finish the set with some fabric napkins. As you will see from the notes below – this can be a very quick project that yields excellent results.

When I make fabric napkins I always use the product “Wonder Tape”. The product has a ¼” paper attached to one side of a double-sided tape.

For making napkins, I take the Wonder Tape and place it at the very edge on the top side (right side up) of the fabric. I stop taping ¼” in from the ends which will become the corners.

After you have put the tape on all 4 sides, go to the ironing board. I fold the edge over ¼” and iron, leave the paper on the double-sided tape while you are ironing. After I go all the way around once, I turn a second time ¼” hem and iron as I go.

Now go to your sewing machine, unfold your pressed hem and take off the paper off one side at a time as you sew your ¼” hem. Because the tape holds everything in place as you sew your fabric doesn’t shift as you sew (which would leave puckers). Instead it lays very flat and you can sew around the napkin in no time at all. Note – you can note that you can sew right through the tape and it won’t gum up your sewing machine.
You will have a beautiful hem when you are done – without getting a major headache in the process!

Next – make coordinating Napkin Rings!
To make the napkin rings, I used the fusible Peltex cut into strips: 5½” X 1¾”.

Cut the fabric for the rings into 4” wide strips. You will then lay the Peltex strip down in the center of the fabric. Iron to fuse the Peltex. This will provide strength and shape to the rings. As you can see, I left a small space and simply fused all of my Peltex onto one piece of fabric, then I went back and cut each strip to size.

Stitch down the center to hold the fabric to Peltex after pressing. Overlap the two ends and hand stitch the ring closed. Add a fabric yo-yo made with the ex-large yo-yo maker and a leaf.

Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us

Now you can make your own napkins in no time – just imagine the possibilities! And feel free to share your ideas!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

Do You Yo-Yo?

I’ve been asked to show just how the new yo-yo makers from Clover work, so this post will strictly be a how-to. Feel free to respond with any questions you have about the process or the product itself.

Step 1

Step 1 – Lining up the template is very important in making circular yo-yos. Notice the bump on the outside of the template (where my finger is pointing)?

Step 2

Step 2 – Line that bump up with the line that is on the insert. Make sure you don’t forget to sandwich your fabric between the two pieces!

Step 3

Step 3 – Snap the fabric between the inside disk and outside cover of the yo-yo maker. Trim away the fabric leaving about ¼” that you hold under so when you are sewing you catch it, this will create the hem.

Step 4

Step 4 – Stitch up and down through each of the openings, starting with a stitch on the back of the yo-yo (where your fabric hem is turned under). One stitch will go on each end of the openings, I call them a smiling mouth shape opening because of the way they look. Go all the way around. Your stitches will not go over any part of the plastic (this is how you will remove the template later). I use a doubled thread when sewing yo-yos.

Step 5

Step 5 – Take off the outside piece of the yo-yo maker. You can see my stitches but of course your thread would match your fabric.

Step 6

Step 6 – Carefully remove the fabric from the inside disk. You may need to loosen your stitches slightly to do this.

Step 7

Step 7 – Now pull the thread to gather up the yo-yo.

Step 8

Step 8 –Pull thread as tight as you can and make a knot. You have a yo-yo! You can pull the yo-yo into shape with your hands if needed.

Step 1 Step 2

Heart Yo-Yo – The heart is done much the same way, except that you will need to shape it a bit more as you pull the threads to finish it.

finished heart

Just think of the possiblities for this heart with Valentine’s Day coming up!

step 1 step 1

Flower Yo-Yo – Flower is much the same, with this difference: you can make the center a different color. Cut a circle for the center and put the two fabrics wrong sides together.
Complete the stitching for the center of the flower first, leaving about a 2″ tail of thread at the beginning and end of the circle. Then start your thread again – this time on the outside of the flower. Note: you should not have a thread that goes from the center of the flower to the outside – these areas are stitched separately.
When you are finished stitching the outside, remove the fabric from the template, and draw the threads up, draw the inner circle first, then the outside. Shape the petals as you go.

step 3 Finished Flower

And for those who need to know – here are the approximate sizes of the finished yo-yos using these templates from Clover:

Extra Large Circle: 2 3/8″
Large Circle: 1 3/4″
Small Circle: 1 ¼”
Extra Small Circle: ¾”
Flower: 1 ¾”
Heart: 1 5/8″ x 1 ¾”

It’s amazing how quickly people can become hooked on yo-yos. And they can be used in so many ways, to embellish a placecard at the table, to dress up a shirt as I showed earlier, in necklaces, embellishing a purse, and the list goes on. Of course their use in quilting is a time-honored tradition! Please let me know what you have done with yo-yos lately!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila