FREE Pattern – Easter Placemat #2

Well it’s March, spring is coming (or so we are told, but I know that’s hard to believe in some parts of the country), and Easter is just around the corner. You all seemed to enjoy my Easter placemats with the fabric yo-yos so much, that I thought you might like a different idea to use this Easter.

Easter often means family, and plenty of young children. And what do young children mean? Messes!
Here are some placemats that the kids will love to use, and that will help you contain the mess. The silverware pocket will be a fun added element for the small ones, who can help to set their own place at the table. You may even continue to use these throughout the spring!

Easter Placemats

Materials (will yield set of four placemats):

  • 2/3 yds – center fabric (bunny print)
  • 1 fat quarter – accent fabric one (green polka dot)
  • 1 fat quarter – accent fabric two (yellow stripe)
  • 1/8 yd – muslin (to make bunny faces)
  • 1/8 yd – green fabric (carrot stems)
  • ¼ yd – orange fabric (carrots)
  • 1 yd – fusible web
  • 1 yd – fabric backing
  • 1 yd – batting
  • Optional: Scrap pink fabric (inside ears), Scrap black fabric (eyes and nose)

As usual with any project where you are uncertain of the fabric contents, wash and dry all of your fabrics before you get started – this will help prevent shrinkage later on.

Construction:

For each of the four placemats you will need, 11”x 13” piece of center fabric (bunny print), 4½” x 13” piece of each of the two accent fabrics (green polka dot and yellow stripe).
These three pieces are sewn together using a ¼” seam allowance, the accent fabrics are on either side of the center fabric.  Note: If you want, you could use a single accent fabric – and sew it on either side of the center fabric.

You will also need to cut two bunny faces, one carrot top, and two carrots for each placemat. Please see the attached pattern for the bunny faces and carrots.  Pattern Link & Placemat Line Drawing

Draw the carrot top and bunny faces onto the paper backing of your fusible webbing, then attach to the appropriate fabric (muslin for bunnies and green for carrot top), before cutting the fabric to size.

For carrots, draw the shape directly onto your orange fabric, and stack two pieces of fabric with right sides together. You will sew the two carrot pieces together all the way around the shape, then cut a slit in the center of one carrot, trim the excess fabric away (leaving 1/8” all the way around), and turn the piece right side out. This will finish the edges of the carrot and make it very slightly 3-D in appearance.

Fuse bunny faces and carrot tops to the placemats, using the instructions for your fusible webbing. Then stitch around each element with black embroidery thread in a decorative blanket stitch. Stitch the carrots onto the placemat backing in the same manner – except for the TOP of the carrot. Leave the top of the carrot open to make this into a pocket for silverware. Note: to complete the look of this, I blanket-stitched that area too, but did not sew through to the back of the placemat – just through the carrot.
You might be tempted to skip the blanket stitch and just sew down the appliqué pieces with your sewing machine – but looking at this picture, you can see how much the blanket stitch really finishes this project off.


Complete the accents for the bunnies with fabric (pink for inside ears and a small bit of black fabric for eyes and nose) or you can embroider these elements on. I used a small bit of fabric paint to add blush to the bunnies’ cheeks. You could use buttons for the eyes and nose if you wanted (and don’t mind a slightly lumpy placemat). Another fun idea would be to add a bow-tie to one bunny, and a bow on the ear of the other (Mr. & Mrs. Bunny). After finishing this project, it occurred to me that a green napkin would make a great carrot top! What other personal touches come to your mind?

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After you have finished all your appliqué and embellishments, it’s time to finish off the project – with batting, backing and binding. I used the same fabric as the center of my placemat as the binding, but if you wanted to use a coordinating purchased binding that would be fine as well.

How Fun!

How Fun!

Have fun with this, and if you make one, send me a picture – I love showing different ideas for the same project!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

Chenille Heart Table Toppers

Spring? We’re still looking at snow on the ground here in the midwest, so I can’t exactly say that spring is in the air – but Valentine’s day is coming and that does tend to give people a ‘spring’ feeling for a few days.

With that in mind – I thought this might be a good time for a new valentine project. So here it is, and I hope you enjoy it!

Chenille Valentine Table Toppers and Hot Pads

In addition to your sewing machine, you will need:

  • 2 yards of a pink/red plaid homespun fabric
  • 2 yards of a solid pink or red fabric (I used pink)
  • 1 Olfa Chenille Cutter
  • 1 acrylic ruler
  • Erasable fabric marker/pencil
  • Heart Template (I made a free-hand template that measured 13”x 18”)

Cut the solid fabric into two one-yard pieces.

Cut one of the yards of solid fabric in half (so it becomes two pieces, each 45” x 18”), set the other one-yard piece aside to make the bias tape later.

Cut your homespun plaid into 4 pieces, each 45” x 18”.

Layer the fabrics as follows: 2 layers of solid pink, with 4 layers of plaid homespun on top. Remember to keep your right sides up on all these fabrics.

For those who have not read my blog post on dealing with prints when making a chenilled fabric, I suggest checking that post out now: Chenille Baby Blanket.  If you want the plaid to show properly, you need to stack the plaid fabric pieces so the print will match.

Once all fabrics are stacked to your satisfaction, pin the layers in place and using the acrylic ruler, mark your first stitching line for your channels. If you are making your first piece of chenilled fabric, please see this link for more information on stitching channels: Make Your Own Chenille.   Make your channel stitches ½” apart for this project.

Channel Stitches

Channel Stitches

Chenille Cutter

Chenille Cutter

Once all your channels have been stitched, select the foot of your chenille cutter that best fits into the channels (not too tightly or loosely) and cut through the top four layers of fabric in each channel. (In other words, you are only cutting through the four pieces of plaid, not the solid.)

Cut out your two hearts – mine measured 13”x 18”.

You should also have enough fabric to make two potholders – I made mine 8”x 9”, but they can be square if you want.

Using the layer of solid pink that was set aside previously, make a bias-cut seam binding and bind each of the pieces, you may want to leave a loop on the pot holders to hang them.

Finally, wash and dry your projects to allow the chenille to ‘bloom’.

Interested in more about making chenille fabrics?  Check out these posts:

Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

Free Pattern: Crochet Turkey

Hello everyone – it’s almost Thanksgiving, and for many of us here in the US, that means family gatherings – decorating the table, and turkey!

So, what better post for this coming holiday than my new friend Tom? He’s another great pattern from Lion Brand® Yarn!

Tom is a crocheted amigurumi (stuffed animal), made using continuous rounds.

Tom Turkey

Pattern Difficulty
Easy (and here is a link to the pattern difficulty chart used by Lion Brand)

Size
Approximately 7 inches

Supplies

  • Color A – 1 skein of Vanna’s Choice Yarn: Chocolate (860-126)
  • Color B – 1 skein of Vanna’s Choice Yarn: Mustard (860-158)
  • Color C – 1 skein of Vanna’s Choice Yarn: Cranberry (860-180)
  • Color D – 1 skein of Vanna’s Choice Yarn: Honey (860-130)
  • Lion Brand Crochet Hook – Size G6
  • Large Eyed Blunt Needle
  • 1 pair plastic Safety Eyes: 6mm diameter
  • Fiberfill Stuffing

GAUGE:

EXACT GAUGE IS NOT ESSENTIAL FOR THIS PROJECT. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

sc2tog (sc decrease) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

NOTES:

Work in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.

HEAD AND BODY

  • Beg at top of head, with A, ch 2.
  • Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch. Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
  • Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – 12 sc.
  • Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around – 18 sc.
  • Rnds 4 -8: Sc in each sc around.
  • Rnd 9: *Sc2tog, sc in next st, rep from * around – 12 sts.
  • Following package instructions, attach safety eyes.
  • Rnds 10 -13: Sc in each sc around.
  • Begin stuffing piece, add additional stuffing as work continues.
  • Rnd 14: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, rep from * around – 15 sts.
  • Rnd 15: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, rep from * around – 18 sts.
  • Rnd 16: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, rep from * around – 21 sts.
  • Rnd 17: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 6 sts, rep from * around – 24 sts.
  • Rnd 18: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, rep from * around – 27 sts.
  • Rnd 19: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 8 sts, rep from * around – 30 sts.
  • Rnd 20: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 9 sts, rep from * around – 33 sts.
  • Rnd 21: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 10 sts, rep from * around – 36 sts.
  • Rnds 22 -26: Sc in each sc around.
  • Rnd 27: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sts, rep from * around – 30 sts.
  • Rnd 28: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sts, rep from * around – 24 sts.
  • Rnd 29: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * around – 18 sts.
  • Rnd 30: *Sc2tog, sc in next st, rep from * around – 12 sts.
  • Rnd 31: *Sc2tog * around – 6 sts.
  • Fasten off.

BEAK

  • With B, ch 2.
  • Rnd 1: Work 3 sc in first ch. Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
  • Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – 6 sc.
  • Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.
  • Fasten off.

WATTLE

  • With C, ch 2.
  • Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch. Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
  • Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around.
  • Rnd 3: Sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sts- 5 sts.
  • Rnd 4: Sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sts- 4 sts.
  • Rnd 5: Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts- 3 sts.
  • Fasten off.

WINGS (make 2)

  • With A, ch 2.
  • Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch. Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
  • Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
  • Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around –18 sc.
  • Rnds 4 -9: Sc in each sc around.
  • Rnd 10: *Sc2tog, sc in next st, rep from * around – 12 sts.
  • Rnd 11: *Sc2tog, rep from * around – 6 sts.

TAIL

  • With C, ch 5.
  • Row 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across – 8 sts.
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
  • Row 3: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * across – 12 sc.
  • Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Change to D.
  • Row 5: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * across – 16 sc.
  • Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
  • Row 7: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * across – 20 sc.
  • Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. Change to B.
  • Row 9: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, rep from * across – 24 sc.
  • Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
  • Row 11: Ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, rep from * across – 28 sc.
  • Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
  • Fasten off.

FEET (make 2)

  • With D, ch 2.
  • Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch. Place marker in first st for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is completed.
  • Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – 12 sc. Stuff foot lightly.
  • Rnd 3: Sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog- 8 sts.
  • Rnd 4: *Sc2tog, rep from * around – 4 sts.
  • Rnds 5 -7: Sc in each st around.
  • Fasten off.

FINISHING

  • Flatten Beak, add a tiny amount of stuffing, and sew to to head.
  • Stuff Wattle lightly, and sew below Beak. Flatten Wings and sew to Body. Sew Feet to body.
  • Sew Tail to back of body.
  • Weave in ends.

Now, here’s a turkey that won’t require a Presidential Pardon to be able to enjoy the days after Thanksgiving!

I’ll have another fun pattern for you tomorrow!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila