Appliqué Towels!

Every year I stitch towels for high school swimmers that have qualified for the state swim meet. A local tradition is that the state qualifiers make a towel for one of their fellow state qualifying swimmers, and the towels are always personalized for that swimmer.

Today I thought I would share two of the towels I worked on, and the towel I am making for my granddaughter.

  1. Purchase 2 yards of 45″ wide towel terry fabric is at the fabric store.
  2. After working out the design elements of the towel, I begin to appliqué them on top.
  3. I use Pellon Wonder Under to fuse the appliqués on and than do a loose satin stitch to finish the edges of the appliqués.
  4. Be careful not to satin stitch too tightly or you will stretch out the towel fabric.

Pellon Wonder Under is a fusible web product that is wonderful for working with appliqués. Fusible Web is basically a sheet of glue with paper attached to one side. You trace your design (mirror image) on to the paper. Trim around the tracing leaving about ¼” around your design. Lay the paper webbing with the glue side to the back of your fabric and iron the two together. The heat will activate the glue, adhering it firmly to your project. Now trim directly on the line you drew on the paper. Remove the paper backing and place the wrong side of the appliqué to the right side of your project and iron again. This will fix the two fabrics together. Because the glue sheet is all the way to the edge of the appliqué you should not have much fraying if any; however, it is always good to finish the edge with a satin or blanket stitch.


This first swimmer is into the argyle look so I took the red towel and added black and white diamonds and than did a zig-zag stitch through the diamonds to create the design. After the design was complete, I went back and appliquéd on the swimmer’s name and the other letter elements (the category she qualified for, the year, and of course the school name). I choose white because it would stand out nicely and still worked well with the other colors in the towel. As you can see, Lauren is a diver.

Some of the towels are more graphic than others, here is one for a freestyle swimmer who also happens to like cars.

Of course, working on projects like these tends to inspire me in other, similar directions. Below is a picture of a beach towel I have just finished for my granddaughter for Easter.

Her towel is being made onto a store-bought towel (no requirement to ‘make’ every element of her towel!), and I got the idea for the appliqué pieces from a new quilting book that I have recently previewed for Hancock Fabrics.


Anyone looking for some inspiration for some cheery quilts should consider taking a look at this book once it becomes available!
Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

Minneapolis Sewing Seminar

Pati This weekend, I attended and assisted with a two-day seminar in Minneapolis, MN Feb. 8-9,2008 We had a full house – 82 women attended this sewing seminar! Hancock Fabrics staff in the area worked with their local American Sewing Guild to jointly bring in Pati Palmer for the event.

Pati is highly respected for her knowledge of the sewing industry. When you look through McCall’s, Butterick, and Vogue patterns you will see her name on many as the designer of the pattern. Pati has been involved in this business a long time, and has some great tips and suggestions on ways to make patterns fit properly. One of the attendees was willing to get a personal fitting in front of everyone! This allowed Pati to show us the steps she takes in fitting a pattern to the person. She took the pattern tissue and pined it together for fitting a person. She then walked us through the fitting step-by-step.

One of the sessions she did was her “20 top twenty tips for sewing”. If you ever get a chance to hear Pati Palmer at a sewing expo, etc make sure you take the opportunity – you won’t be sorry. Pati’s instruction included proper uses of interfacings, tips on tailoring, and more.

We all had a great time, and I have to admit, I personally got so caught up in Pati’s presentation (even though I have seen her speak before) that I forgot to start taking pictures until near the very end of the seminar!

Check out Pati’s website for more information on her work and to see where she will be teaching next!


Full House!


Pati’s Demonstration – using digital displays


Pati was happy to take time to help and answer questions afterwards.


Sewers (and future sewers) from all Generations were in attendance.

Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
Sheila

DYK (Did You Know) – Dritz Pins

D.Y.K. – Did You Know?
Here is some information I thought might be helpful to you in trying to select the right pins to use for your next project. Data was provided by the Prym Dritz company and then re-worded to fit my format.

You need to pin two items together – but what type of pin to use? What makes a Quilting pin different from a Ball Point pin? Why do you need Dressmaker pins? I’ll help you sort out the confusion!

  • Prym Dritz Ball Point Pins
    • Size 17 – 1 1/16” with metal head
    • Size 20 – 1¼” with colored plastic head
    • Tip rounded for knits and lingerie fabrics
  • Prym Dritz Long Ball Point Pins
    • Size 24 – 1½” with colored plastic head
    • Designed for use with medium-weight knits
  • Prym Dritz Quilting Pins
    • Size 28 – 1¾” with colored plastic head
    • Great for basting quilt layers together, as well as multiple layers of fabric for other projects.
    • Long length – for loose weaves, synthetic furs, plush and bulky fabrics and trims
  • Prym Dritz (Collins) Quilter’s Glass Head Pins
    • 1⅜” long – with colored glass head
    • Head is designed to be heat-resistant
    • Fine shaft (.5mm), ideal for machine piecing and use with delicate fabrics
  • Prym Dritz (Collins) Flat Flower Pins
    • 2” long with flat head.
    • Designed for lace, eyelets, lofty fabrics, and home décor.
    • Flat head is great for pining together fabrics that will be cut with a rotary cutter (head will not distort the lay of the ruler.)
    • Flat head is made of a no-melt plastic (perfect if you need to iron pinned fabrics.
  • Prym Dritz Bridal & Lace Pins
    • Size 17 – 1 1/16” with metal head
    • Rustproof to prevent damage to fine fabrics.
    • Extra-fine shaft for use on delicate and lightweight fabrics.
  • Prym Dritz Dressmaker Pins
    • Size 20 – 1¼” with metal head
    • General-purpose sewing pin.
    • Designed for medium-weight fabrics.
  • Prym Dritz Long Pleating Pins
    • Size 17 – 1 1/16” with metal head
    • A fine shaft with a sharp point for pleating.
    • Great for use with delicate fabrics
  • Prym Dritz Beading Pins
    • Size 14 – ⅞” with wide metal head
    • For use with open weaves or beading
  • Prym Dritz Sequin Pins
    • Size 8 – ½” with metal head
    • Extra-short pin, with fine shaft
    • For hand appliqué, crafts and use with sequins.
  • Prym Dritz Silk Pins
    • Size 17 – 1 1/16” with metal head
    • Rustproof for use on silk and synthetics
  • Prym Dritz Extra-Fine Satin Pins
    • Size 17 – 1 1/16” with metal head
    • Can be used on satins and other medium weight fabrics.

    Why do pins have different points? – The sharp points are designed for the majority of fabrics, while ball points (rounded) will slide between the loops of knits without snagging or pulling.

    What pins are best for using with a tool that applies heat? – Flat flower pins are designed with a no-melt plastic, and the Quilter’s Glass Head pins are heat resistant.

    What types of metals are used in pins? – Nickel-plated steel pins are designed for magnetic pin cushions, and are rust resistant. Stainless steel pins are rustproof, brass pins are rustproof. Nickle-plated brass pins are rustproof and will not tarnish.
    Sheila Reinke, Heart of Sewing
    Sheila